Podgorica in 3 days: the city, Duklja and Lake Skadar

The Clock Tower on Becir-beg Osmanagic Square is one of the recognisable remains of Ottoman Podgorica. Around it, the lanes of Stara Varos, with their houses, gates and courtyards, reveal an older side of Podgorica than today's broad streets. The tower is viewed from outside, leaving most of the morning visit for a walk through the neighbouring lanes.

Continue towards Sastavci along Kese Durovica and Spasa Nikolica streets. The walk from the tower to the approach to the confluence is about 600 metres, or 10-15 minutes. The small stone bridge crosses the Ribnica just before it joins the much wider Moraca. From the stepped approach, you can see the narrow river channel opening into the larger river.

Steps lead down to the bridge, making access difficult with a pushchair or for people who have difficulty walking.

From the confluence, return to street level and follow Njegoseva Street to Bokeska. The walk is about 550 metres and takes 10-15 minutes. A longer break in the centre separates the morning walk from the afternoon visit to Gorica, with lunch around 14:00. In summer, this gap lets you spend the hottest part of the day indoors before walking again.

Podgorica's popeci are traditionally made with veal filled with cheese, cured ham and skorup cream, then breaded and fried. This is a filling local meal. For places to have lunch, see the guide to restaurants and cafes in Podgorica.

The afternoon begins in Njegosev Park, beside the monument to Petar II Petrovic Njegos. Follow the riverbank to the pedestrian Moscow Bridge, where you can see Millennium Bridge from the side: its pylon and cables stand out above the Moraca. Continue to Gorica along the city streets beside the stadium. The path directly beside the water does not lead all the way to the hill.

Saint George's Church stands at the main entrance to the forest park. The small stone church and old cemetery give the start of the climb a different appearance from the newer city streets. From here, the Partisan Fighter Monument is about 550 metres uphill through the woods. Two sculptures of fighters stand before the white-stone mausoleum, approached by steps and a paved path.

Return along the same path to the church, then walk past the stadium to Independence Square. Gorica is scheduled for later in the afternoon because of the summer heat.

Duklja lies about four kilometres north of central Podgorica, on a plateau between the Moraca, Zeta and Siralija rivers. Allow 15-20 minutes to reach the site by car or taxi, including the approach. Among the surviving walls and columns, you can make out the former layout of the Roman city's large public buildings.

The main street was lined by a forum with a basilica, temples and baths. Their foundations and stone fragments show how different this space was from the surrounding settlement today: this was where city business, trade and public life took place. The remains of early Christian buildings on the eastern side mark a later period, when Duklja was also a bishop's seat.

Duklja is an open plateau, so the visit is scheduled for the morning during the warmer part of the year.

The city museum's Archaeology Department is at 4 Marka Miljanova Street. Returning from Duklja and reaching the museum takes about 25-35 minutes. After the ruins at Duklja, you see much smaller objects here: ceramic and glass vessels, jewellery, tools and coins from its cemeteries.

The finds also show connections with distant parts of the Roman Empire, from Italy and Greece to North Africa. The collection spans the Middle Palaeolithic to the Middle Ages, allowing you to follow the development of this area before and after the Roman city. Allow 45-75 minutes for the department.

The Archaeology Department is open Tuesday to Saturday 10:00-18:00, and on Sundays 10:00-14:00. It is closed on Mondays. Schedule the day with Duklja and the museum between Tuesday and Sunday.

The museum is in the centre, leaving time for lunch and a break before crossing the Moraca to the cathedral. Lunch falls between 13:30 and 14:30, with the cathedral visit later in the afternoon. Choose a place for lunch in this part of the city using the Podgorica restaurant guide.

The Cathedral of the Resurrection of Christ stands out with its dome and tall stone towers. The large blocks on the lower facade are roughly worked, while the stone becomes more finely finished towards the top.

The interior is painted from the walls to the dome, with frescoes on a gold background. The paintings continue in the crypt.

From the museum, continue on foot across the Moraca to the cathedral, a walk of about 30-35 minutes.

The drive from Podgorica to Virpazar follows the road past Vranjina and the northern shore of the lake. Allow 40-50 minutes for driving, parking and reaching the village centre in normal conditions. Leaving Podgorica around 10:00 gives you time for a late-morning boat departure.

Check-in for the two-hour Kingfisher boat trip is by the central bridge in Virpazar, 30 minutes before the agreed departure. Book a specific departure before leaving Podgorica, since it determines the timing of lunch and your return.

The boat follows narrow channels beside the reeds, then reaches the open lake, with Vranjina and the mountains rising above the water. The two-hour route from Virpazar passes the stone remains of Lesendro and continues towards channels and islands surrounded by broad beds of water lilies in summer. Seeing the leaves, reeds and willow groves up close feels quite different from looking at the lake from the shore.

The northern wetland shore is an important bird habitat. Herons and cormorants can be seen beside the aquatic vegetation. A sightseeing cruise does not guarantee a sighting of any particular species. This day includes a two-hour trip returning to Virpazar. Longer cruises to monasteries are separate excursions.

The national park entry fee is included in the published offer for this Kingfisher trip. With another operator, check whether it is charged separately before you reserve.

Rain or strong wind can lead to a change of boat, a rescheduled departure or cancellation.

Lunch in Virpazar falls around 14:00, after the boat trip. Krap, the local name for carp, and ukljeva, or bleak, are part of Lake Skadar's cuisine. Carp is also served smoked or baked with onion and dried fruit, while the small bleak is served fresh or smoked and fried. Availability depends on the restaurant and the fish on offer.

After the meal and a break, there is time for a 20-30-minute walk across the bridges in the small centre and beside the channel with its boats. Allow another 40-50 minutes to drive back to Podgorica.