Ulcinj in 10 days

Stand on the promenade beneath the fortified quarter before climbing into it. From Mala Plaža, the rocky position of the Old Town and its relationship with Pristan are immediately clear. Take the Lower Gate and linger on the first lanes and squares rather than walking directly to the upper restaurants. Once the shape of the walls and former harbour makes sense, carry on uphill towards the museum quarter and the old market square.

The museum occupies a historic group of buildings and displays material from the different cultures that formed Ulcinj. Continue across the square linked with the town's former slave market and on towards Balšić Tower. Look beyond the sea views and notice the compact pattern of homes, courtyards and covered passages inside the walls. Complete a full circuit of the upper lanes, then descend through the gates to the waterfront rather than searching for another exit.

Walk east along Pristan from Mala Plaža and continue beneath the pines above the coast. This part of Ulcinj has room for lunch, swimming and a substantial seaside walk while keeping the Old Town in view from several openings. Since the route finishes close to where it began, the car can remain parked throughout the day. Return to Mala Plaža in the evening and make the short journey to the same Ulcinj address for the night.

Pause by the Port Milena bridge where the channel meets the northern edge of Long Beach. Its large wooden kalimera frames carry fishing nets and preserve a technique closely associated with Ulcinj. A walk beside the water shows the structures in context with the Salina channel and the sea. Spend enough time to understand the working landscape rather than collecting one photograph, then drive onwards to a serviced entrance on Long Beach.

Choose a single organised beach access and use the car park belonging to it. Remaining in one section provides time for a swim, lunch and a long walk across the fine sand without repeatedly moving the vehicle. Record the name of the entrance before leaving the car, because Long Beach covers many kilometres and its approaches are widely separated. Continue south after a proper beach stay, heading towards the Bojana River and Ada Bojana.

Finish beside the Bojana where timber buildings and fish restaurants line the river approach to Ada Bojana. Walk through the open riverside area, eat near the water and observe the transition from river delta to sandy coast. The atmosphere is distinct from the exposed beach visited earlier and rewards a longer final stay. Drive directly back to Ulcinj afterwards and return to the same room or apartment for the second night.

Slow down on the approach to Valdanos and walk among part of its extensive old olive grove. The dry-stone boundaries, irregular trunks and gradual fall towards the sea reveal a cultivated landscape shaped over generations. A measured walk shows clearly how the trees, paths and walls work together. Resume the descent afterwards and leave the car in the parking area above the bay.

Descend from the car park to the pebble shore enclosed by wooded slopes. Valdanos feels contained and quiet compared with the immense sweep of Long Beach, so give the cove time for swimming, a shoreline walk and a packed meal. The meeting point between olive grove and sea is the main feature of the place. Walk back uphill after the visit and continue north-west along the coastal route towards Kruče.

Kruče stands above its own bay on the section known as the Old Ulcinj coast. Descend on foot from the settlement and follow part of the rocky shoreline. Traces of former rural houses found in this area show that the shore was used for long stays well before modern tourism. Have a late lunch in the settlement, walk beside the bay and then make the direct journey back to your original Ulcinj accommodation.

Enter through the visitor access and follow only the tracks and observation areas available to guests. The former saltworks is understood through its long embankments, geometric shallow pools and wetland birdlife. Spend time looking across several basins rather than expecting a single monument or viewpoint. The setting explains how an industrial landscape became one of Ulcinj's most distinctive natural areas. Finish the accessible route and drive inland towards Vladimir.

Stop in the centre of Vladimir, the service town for the Ana Malit district. A short walk and lunch here introduce the inhabited countryside behind the resort coast and create a sensible break before the archaeological visit. Low houses, local shops and the unhurried centre show the everyday inland municipality. Continue for about 15 minutes to Šas village and the approach towards medieval Svač.

Walk from Šas towards the remains of medieval Svač on the rise overlooking Lake Šas. Ruined churches, sections of walls and the broad prospect across the Bojana plain give the site both archaeological and geographical value. Paths are not comparable with a paved town centre, so firm footwear makes the visit easier. Return by the same approach after exploring the hill, collect the car and head straight to Ulcinj for the fourth night.

Use the dedicated parking beside the enclosed Old Olive Tree site. The visit centres on the protected tree and the interpretation of olive growing around Bar, complementing the wider grove seen at Valdanos. Because this stop stands outside the Stari Bar walls, finish it completely before moving on. The parking below the old fortified town is about 10 minutes away and provides the next clear starting point.

Pass through the bazaar on foot and enter Stari Bar through its main gate. Follow the former streets past religious buildings, defensive remains and the aqueduct so the settlement reads as an abandoned town rather than a single fortress. Once outside again, return along the bazaar and have lunch beneath the walls. This completes the historic part of Bar before the short descent to the modern centre and coast.

Leave the car close to King Nikola's Palace and explore the residence and its grounds. Continue on foot along the promenade towards the marina and harbour. The contrast with Stari Bar is immediate, placing the modern town on a level shoreline below Mount Rumija. Include the museum rooms when accessible and end with time beside the water. Return to this car park and drive back to Ulcinj for the fifth overnight stay.

Climb from the small centre to Besac Fortress for a broad view over Virpazar, the Crmnica plain and the waterways entering Lake Skadar. The elevated start makes the layout of the destination much easier to grasp. Return down to the old bridge and landing area afterwards. Before choosing a boat, establish how long the circuit lasts and confirm that it finishes at the same quay in Virpazar.

A two- or three-hour loop gives time for narrow channels, reeds, water lilies and an open section of Lake Skadar. Agree in advance that the boat will return to the original Virpazar landing. The cruise provides views that roads cannot, while its defined duration leaves time for lunch and a walk through the town. Step ashore where you boarded and walk directly back into the centre.

After the cruise, have lunch in Virpazar and follow the Orahovštica towards the old bridge. Cross back into the compact centre and watch the late boats return to the quay before walking to the railway-station car park. Allow another 1 hour 20 minutes for the journey to Ulcinj. The sixth evening finishes at the one accommodation base used throughout the itinerary.

Drive directly to Rozafa Castle after entering Albania. The fortress stands a few kilometres south of Shkodër centre, with parking near the steep final approach. Explore the principal walls, church remains and museum, then take in the confluence of the Buna and Drin and the wider view towards Lake Shkodër. The panorama provides a concise introduction to the city's setting. Descend to the vehicle and drive about 10 minutes to central Shkodër.

Park once in the central area and continue along Kole Idromeno Street on foot. The Marubi National Museum of Photography uses portraits and documentary work to show the people, streets and history of northern Albania. Continue through the pedestrian centre to Ebu Bekr Mosque, St Stephen's Cathedral and the main squares. Have lunch in town, then continue through the pedestrian quarter around Kole Idromeno Street.

Spend the final hours among the pedestrian streets around Kole Idromeno. Their low façades, cafés and nearby religious buildings reveal far more of daily Shkodër than another brief drive beyond the centre. Walk back to the original car park and leave directly for the Montenegrin border. After the border check, continue to Ulcinj and end the outing at the same accommodation rather than staying overnight in Albania.

Use the public car park beside Petrovac bus station and walk down to the beach. Follow the promenade to Kastio, the small stone fortification facing Katič and Sveta Neđelja. This compact route includes the essential town, coast and viewpoint without any need to drive through residential streets. Return to the bus-station car park and continue for about 25 minutes to the Sveti Stefan area.

Begin at the recognised viewpoint above Sveti Stefan for the full island and causeway view. Continue to parking near Miločer and walk through the park past the former royal residence towards Queen's Beach and the shore. Joining these two perspectives gives Sveti Stefan a proper visit rather than a moment beside the road. Return to your vehicle and allow about 20 minutes for the drive into Budva.

Choose a car park on Mediteranska Street near the walls. Inside the Old Town, move between its church squares, visit the Citadel and follow the seaward edge above Ričardova Glava beach. Budva is the principal visit, so reserve enough time for the Citadel, dinner and the lanes themselves. Leave from the same parking place afterwards and make the direct journey back to Ulcinj for night eight.

Leave the car near Studentski Trg and cross the centre towards the royal quarter. Pass King Nikola's Palace on the way to Biljarda, where the rooms introduce the life and work of Petar II Petrović Njegoš. Continue on foot to Cetinje Monastery and return along Njegoševa Street for lunch. Collect the car from the original space before climbing towards Lovćen National Park.

Leave the vehicle below the stair tunnel at Jezerski Vrh. The 461-step climb reaches the mausoleum, its granite figures, mosaic chamber, sarcophagus and the viewing platform beyond. Read the interpretation and walk all the way to the final viewpoint, since both the monument and its exposed mountain setting are essential to the visit. Descend by the same route and continue from the parking area towards Njeguši.

Use the central village parking in Njeguši. When the Njegoš birth house is open, see the rooms connected with the poet and ruler before lunching at a local household on cured ham and cheese. This final village stop completes the connection with Cetinje and Lovćen. Drive back through Cetinje and finish the ninth night at your established Ulcinj base.

Leave the car at an entrance car park and walk along Perast's waterfront. St Nicholas Square, the church and the sequence of maritime palaces reveal the town more effectively than a quick stop beside the main road. Allow the narrow shoreline settlement to be explored at walking pace. Once you reach the central quay, arrange a boat that returns to the same landing after visiting Our Lady of the Rocks.

Confirm the return before setting out from Perast. At Our Lady of the Rocks, the church and museum contain paintings, votive gifts and maritime objects that explain why the artificial island matters to the town. An hour ashore also gives time for views of St George and the surrounding Bay. Return to the original quay, collect the vehicle at the edge of Perast and drive on to Benovo car park in Kotor.

Approach the walls from Benovo and enter through the River Gate. Follow Arms Square and Flour Square to St Tryphon's Cathedral, St Luke's Church and St Nicholas Church. From St Nicholas, take the stone steps to Our Lady of Remedy and descend by the same route before dinner in the old centre. Return to Benovo and drive directly to Ulcinj, completing both day ten and the entire stay.