Podgorica in 10 days

Set off at the Clock Tower and follow the lanes of Stara Varoš to Osmanagić Mosque and the surviving portion of the old hammam. From there, walk down to Sastavci at the meeting point of the Ribnica and Morača. The stone bridge and Ribnica Fortress ruins reveal the riverside origins of early Podgorica. Return to the old quarter for lunch before visiting the modern side of town.

Step inside the Cathedral of the Resurrection of Christ to examine the richly painted space beneath its great dome. Continue towards the Morača on foot and reach Millennium Bridge before collecting the car for Gorica Hill. From St George's Church, the woodland trail climbs to the Monument to the Partisan Fighter above the city centre. Come down to the car and spend the night at the same Podgorica address.

Take a short walk from the stone bridge through Virpazar and call at the national park visitor centre. Arrange a round boat journey with a licensed provider and spend about two hours moving from narrow reed channels to the broad lake. Seeing those two environments from the water gives the visit far more substance than a view from the quay. Eat in Virpazar once ashore, then drive towards Rijeka Crnojevića.

Walk over the stone Danilo Bridge and along the waterfront that once served a trading port. The house of Saint Peter of Cetinje and the story of the Crnojević press at nearby Obod place the small settlement within Montenegro's cultural history. Afterwards, drive to Pavlova Strana and look across the river's great horseshoe bend. Leave the viewpoint for Podgorica and end the evening where the morning began.

Start beside King Nikola's former palace and the Billiard House, where Petar II Petrović Njegoš lived and worked. Cetinje Monastery and Vlaška Church fit naturally into the same pedestrian circuit through the former royal capital. Choose one museum for an interior visit, then spend the remaining time among the historic streets before departing for Lovćen.

The mountain drive from Cetinje takes close to 40 minutes. From the car park, a passage and 461 steps rise to the mausoleum. Examine the caryatids in the entrance hall, the sculpture of Njegoš inside the chapel and the expansive outlook behind the monument. The visit time includes the walk back down before the road continues to Njeguši.

Go inside Njegoš's birthplace and allow an hour for lunch or for tasting the village's cured ham and cheese. The family home completes the account of the statesman and writer introduced at Cetinje and on Lovćen. Driving from Njeguši to Podgorica takes about one hour and 20 minutes. Return to your original room for the night.

Pass through the Sea Gate into Arms Square, cross Flour Square and continue towards Saint Tryphon Cathedral, Saint Luke's Church and Saint Nicholas Church. This walk joins the most significant squares and religious buildings within Kotor's walls. Reserve at least 90 minutes for reaching San Giovanni Fortress and coming down again. Take lunch after the descent, then follow the shore to Perast for about 20 minutes.

Follow Perast's waterfront past Saint Nicholas Church and the grand houses built for prosperous maritime families. Boats from the quay make the return journey to Our Lady of the Rocks. Its museum and church recount the creation of the man-made island and preserve gifts left by seafarers. Once back in Perast, set out for Podgorica and allow approximately one hour and 40 minutes to reach your accommodation.

Wander from the Citadel to Saint John Church, Santa Maria in Punta and the intimate squares enclosed by stone buildings. Beside the Citadel, the prospect opens across the marina to Sveti Nikola Island. Follow the edge of the harbour after completing the lanes, then stop for lunch in Budva. The next drive leads to the hillside above Sveti Stefan.

Look down from the hillside over the whole Sveti Stefan peninsula and both beaches that join it to the coast. Then descend to the seafront for a walk through Miločer Park, where cypresses surround the former royal summer residence. Combining the elevated panorama with the park gives this part of the riviera a proper visit before you continue to Petrovac.

Walk the seafront promenade as far as Kastio Fortress, the remaining Venetian stronghold above the harbour. Its terrace looks across Petrovac Bay towards Katič and Sveta Neđelja islands. Retrace the promenade and sit down for a drink or early supper. Allow about one hour to drive back to Podgorica and complete the day at your usual accommodation.

Walk uphill from the bazaar and enter Stari Bar through the main gateway. The large compound contains the Citadel, Clock Tower, ruins of Saint George Cathedral, the hammam and an aqueduct carried on massive stone arches. Together they illustrate the medieval, Venetian and Ottoman periods of this inland town. Come back to the bazaar for lunch before travelling onwards to Ulcinj.

Use the upper gateway to reach Ulcinj's Citadel, Balšić Tower, the Church-Mosque and the little squares set among old stone houses. The walls overlook Mala Plaža, the port and today's town beneath the fortress. Continue by car to Velika Plaža and walk part of its exceptionally broad sandy shoreline. The return journey finishes at the Podgorica accommodation used throughout the holiday.

First visit the Lower Monastery and its Holy Trinity Church, surrounded by the monastic living quarters. The Upper Monastery stands farther uphill within the rock face. Two tiny cave churches form its core and hold the relics of Saint Basil of Ostrog, attracting pilgrims from several religious traditions. Dress with shoulders and knees covered, then drive on to Nikšić.

A central circuit links Freedom Square with the Cathedral Church of Saint Basil of Ostrog and Bedem Fortress. These sites represent the planned nineteenth-century centre, its great church and a much older defensive structure. Have lunch before driving to Krupac Lake, where an hour's walk follows the water's edge. Head back from the lake to the same Podgorica address.

About four kilometres from central Podgorica, Doclea spreads over a plateau bounded by the Morača, Zeta and Širalija waterways. Follow its main street to the baths, forum basilica and fragments of the Capitoline temple. The extensive episcopal basilica stands in the eastern section. Reading these remains in sequence reveals the organisation of the Roman town, whilst the surrounding water explains its position. Medun is the next destination.

Ascend through the ruins of Illyrian Meteon, passing substantial wall sections, the medieval fortification and Saint Nicholas Church. Marko Miljanov and his wife Stefa are buried beside the church. His birthplace at the bottom of the hill has become a museum displaying personal belongings, manuscripts and published works. After seeing the collection, drive back to your Podgorica base for the night.

Take the circular footpath around both Great Lake and Little Lake. It measures about 3.6 kilometres, runs through coniferous forest and requires at least an hour at a continuous walking pace. Different sections show the changing shore, the link between the two bodies of water and Durmitor's summits beyond the trees. Pick up food and water from the vehicle before the mountain circuit.

Make the first halt at Sedlo for an uninterrupted mountain prospect, then pause beneath Prutaš and in Trsa village. The road between them crosses lofty passes and passes grazing land, seasonal katuns and year-round settlements. Step out for a brief walk at all three locations so the circuit becomes more than scenery seen through glass. Once the ring is complete, return towards Žabljak.

It takes about 30 minutes to reach Đurđevića Tara Bridge from Žabljak. Cross the central span on foot for views of the bridge arches, the steep canyon walls and the river far beneath the carriageway. Give the visit close to an hour, then leave for Podgorica. The two-and-a-half-hour drive ends at the accommodation where this outing started.

Morača Monastery lies about one hour by road from Podgorica. Within its walled grounds, see the Church of the Dormition, the smaller Church of Saint Nicholas, the monastic quarters and the garden above the river. Frescoes and icons created in different centuries tell the story of a religious and artistic centre with a long life. Continue north towards Biogradska Gora.

The journey from Morača Monastery to Biogradsko Lake lasts about an hour. A 3.3-kilometre educational trail circles the lake inside protected old-growth forest, with information boards describing its plants and wildlife. Walking it without lengthy stops takes about 40 minutes. Kolašin is another 30 minutes away, where you can stroll from Fighters' Square through the centre and have lunch. Podgorica and your usual room are about one hour and 15 minutes farther south.