5 days in Zabljak: town and day trips

Black Lake takes its name from the dark forest reflected in its water. The rocky slopes of Medjed rise behind it. Veliko and Malo lakes are connected by a narrow channel that can dry up when summer water levels are low.

The walk from the centre to the main shore is estimated at about 45 minutes. Starting around 9:30 gets you to the lake around 10:15.

Day admission to Durmitor National Park costs €5 per person and includes the educational trails.

The view changes as you walk around the lake: broad stretches of water give way to narrower shores, and the rocks of Medjed reappear through the branches. Information boards along the educational trail explain the nature of the park.

The circuit of about 3.5 km takes an estimated hour and 45 minutes of walking, with a 20-minute break and a return to the starting shore around 12:45. Steps, roots and rocky sections require steady footing.

The walk back is estimated at about 45 minutes, making around 14:00 a suitable time for lunch in the centre. The Zabljak dining guide can help you choose somewhere to eat. The total time includes the meal and a longer afternoon rest.

From Zabljak, the drive goes through Bosaca towards Momcilov grad and Stuoc, reaching the trailhead beside the scenic road. The drive is estimated at about 25 minutes. Including the walk to your car and parking, leaving around 9:15 lets you start walking around 9:55.

The Google link ends at the roadside trailhead before the Momcilov grad restaurant. The description of the direct approach distinguishes the forest path to the lake from longer routes via viewpoints.

The trail crosses meadows and conifer forest before descending into the hollow beneath Crvena Greda. The lake is smaller than Black Lake and more closely enclosed by mountain slopes, with the height of the rock faces above the water particularly noticeable from its shore. In late summer, water levels can fall considerably and expose part of the lakebed.

The estimated walking time to the lake and back along the same forest path is 75 minutes each way, plus an hour beside the lake for sightseeing and a break. You reach your car around 13:25. At the junction for Crvena Greda, the route stays on the path to the lake, while the climb to the summit is not part of this day.

The Google links shown are for the drive to the trailhead and back, not for following the forest trail. Because the markings are not continuous, you need a hiking map or a local guide if you are unsure of your navigation. The return from the lake basin includes an uphill section.

The return drive from the roadside trailhead to Zabljak is estimated at about 25 minutes. Around 14:15 is a suitable time for lunch in the centre, followed by a longer rest at your accommodation after the lake walk. The total for this stage includes the return to your accommodation, the meal and the break.

The northern slopes of Durmitor open up above Bosaca before the road descends towards Mala Crna Gora and the deep Susica Valley. The opposite sides of the canyon seem close here, yet the road only connects them after a long descent and climb back up. Seasonal Susicko Lake lies on the valley floor and may have a dry lakebed in summer.

The drive from Zabljak via Mala Crna Gora to the valley is estimated at about an hour and 35 minutes. Leaving around 9:30 allows time for the short walk and half an hour on the canyon floor, including a break.

The official Durmitor Ring map follows this section of the paved circuit. The road is narrow, and rockfalls are possible after winter and heavy rain. The whole circuit needs to be confirmed passable before setting off.

The climb out of the valley leads towards Nedajno, where a viewpoint looks across the deep cut of the Susica Canyon towards Mala Crna Gora. After seeing the canyon from below, you can better appreciate the scale of the rock faces and plateau on the opposite side.

The drive from the Susica Valley to the viewpoint approach is estimated at about 25 minutes. The short walks in both directions and time above the canyon are already part of this stage's duration.

Beyond Nedajno, the road passes through the Milogora forest and emerges towards Trsa, a village with places serving traditional mountain food. The drive is estimated at about 30 minutes, with lunch around 13:45 between the canyon section and the rocky terrain towards Sedlo. There is also time to rest briefly after the meal.

Piva Nature Park lists the Milogora restaurant in Trsa. The kitchen opening hours and availability of lunch on your chosen date need to be confirmed before the trip. You choose and pay for the meal separately.

After Trsa come the open pastures around Pisce, followed by the rocky landscape of Todorov do beneath Prutas. Prutas is recognisable by its striped rock faces. Further towards Sedlo, the landscape becomes increasingly open, with Sedlena Greda, Stozina and the Sljeme peaks around the high road pass.

The drive via Pisce to Todorov do is estimated at about 45 minutes, followed by another 35 to Sedlo. The short walk to each viewpoint and both stops are included in this stage, with time at Sedlo around 17:10.

The stops are beside the road, with short walks from the car to the viewpoints. Climbs of Prutas, Bobotov Kuk and Sedlena Greda are not part of the itinerary.

From Sedlo, the road descends towards the Poscenska Valley before continuing to Zabljak. The final return drive is estimated at about 45 minutes. The return to your accommodation is included in the total time for the day.

The meeting point is the North Challenge camp in Aluga, beside the road from Zabljak towards the Tara bridge. Your car stays at the camp. Transport to the river and the return jeep ride are part of the rafting service.

The journey from your accommodation is estimated at about 35 minutes, including about 20 minutes of driving. Leaving around 8:10 gets you there around 8:45, fifteen minutes before the planned start at 9:00. That time must be confirmed for your visit date.

This stretch of the Tara has both fast and calmer sections, so your attention shifts between paddling and the canyon itself. At Ljutica, a clear tributary emerges from the foot of the mountain, while passing beneath the bridge's great arches gives a very different sense of its height. Stops along the river depend on water levels and the skipper's decision.

About two hours are spent on the river. The four-hour estimate covers getting equipped, the transfer to Splaviste, rafting, the return jeep ride and changing, finishing around 13:00.

The trip starts at €85 per person, including a guide, rafting equipment, transport from the camp to the river and back, and day admission to Durmitor National Park. Food and drinks are not included. The operator requires participants to be able to swim and to be comfortable in cold water.

The return drive from Aluga to Zabljak is estimated at about 20 minutes. Around 13:50 is a suitable time for lunch in town, after returning and changing. You choose and pay for food separately. The rest of the day includes a longer break after your time on the river.

From Curevac, the Tara and the village of Tepca lie far below the forested rim of the canyon. The rocky trail follows that rim, giving a view down into the deep valley after the previous day on the river.

The drive from Zabljak to the car park is estimated at about 25 minutes, followed by a 45-minute walk to Curevac in each direction. Leaving around 10:15 allows time for the view and a break above the canyon, returning to the car around 13:15.

The walk starts at the car park towards Tepca and Nadgora. The official map describes a rocky trail that is narrow in places and can be slippery in the rain. This walk needs a dry, passable trail. The Google link goes to the car park.

After returning from Curevac, lunch in Zabljak around 14:00 is followed by a rest before the afternoon drive to the lakes. The return to your accommodation, meal and planned break are estimated at a total of two hours and 45 minutes.

Vrazje Lake has an open shoreline among pastures, with the Durmitor massif on the horizon. A lighter band near the shore gives way to darker water towards the centre, while the lack of dense forest around the lake opens up a much broader landscape than at Black Lake.

The drive from Zabljak is estimated at about 25 minutes, leaving around 16:00. A short walk leads to the shore, with about 50 minutes for looking around and a break.

Above Riblje Lake, on a gentle grassy rise near Novakovici, stand the medieval stecci tombstones of Grcko groblje. Among the differently shaped stones, you can see carved crosses, figures and other decorations. The site forms part of the UNESCO World Heritage listing for stecci tombstones.

A short drive leads from Vrazje Lake to the roadside approach to Riblje Lake. The 55-minute estimate for this stage includes the walk back to the car, parking, the approach on foot and 35 minutes at the burial ground.

The visit is outdoors near Riblje Lake. The driving link ends at the approach, followed by a short walk to the burial ground.

The return from the burial ground via the roadside approach to Riblje Lake to your accommodation in central Zabljak is estimated at about 45 minutes. The drive back to Zabljak itself takes approximately 25 minutes.